Two Labels, One Milan Moment

Ralph Lauren closed out Milan Fashion Week with a two-act show that put Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren on the same runway, and a front row stacked with Maluma, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, Tom Hiddleston and Scott Eastwood, all dressed head to toe in the house.

Models carried bouquets of pink and white peonies down the runway at the Ralph Lauren Palazzo, a soft, romantic counterweight to the tailoring’s sharper lines.

Purple Label opened in neutral and indigo, silk-blend suiting and utility-inspired outerwear built for a lifestyle of ease and worldliness, before shifting into its Lake Como chapter:

Art Deco motifs lifted from 1920s mahogany speedboats, translated into racing leathers, textured knitwear and deconstructed neckties.

A capsule made with Japanese house KUON, finished with hand-stitched sashiko embroidery, closed that half of the show.

Polo took the collection back to American prep, remixed. Desert performance gear met bleeder madras plaid and Edwardian-inspired neckwear, while heritage collegiate pieces were pulled apart and patchworked back together by hand.

The finale look, a vintage-style varsity jacket embroidered all over in irregular patchwork, made the season’s point plainly: even Ralph Lauren’s most classic instincts are still restless.

“My approach has always been cinematic,” Ralph Lauren said of the collection, “creating visual stories, and aspirational worlds.” On this runway, in front of a Milan crowd that looked like it had wandered off a red carpet, that felt less like a tagline than a description of the room.